Small Reciprocating Compressors

 

You do not have to hire an outside service company to work on your small reciprocating compressors. We are pleased to offer a unique book, to help you repair these compressors.

The book is easy to understand with useful information, such as the following:

• Explanations for the various components, including illustrations with exploded views.
• Simple diagrams that describe how the controls work.
• Maintenance tips on the 4 most common reasons small reciprocating compressors fail.
• An in-depth trouble shooting guide that includes specific actions to solve each problem.
 

Free Sample

Order today. The book will pay for itself – many times over the years – by eliminating the need for outside vendors to help with repairs. Here is a small sample of the material from the trouble shooting section.

An Excerpt From Chapter 6

In an endeavor to simplify the very important task of trouble shooting, we will first list the "symptoms" and then the probable causes in a concise, compact manner. Then, in the following text, we will take up each probable cause and outline the cure for it, in the same order and by the same numerical listing:

A. Slow pumping or low discharge pressure.
Probable cause:
1) Leaky head valves (or valves not seating).
2) Leaks in air lines, fittings, etc.
3) Restricted air intake or clogged filter element.
4) Compressor too small for equipment being operated.
5) Belts slipping.
6) Unloading mechanism not operating properly.
7) Blown gaskets on intercooler lines.
8) Defective pressure gauge.
9) Worn compressor rings.

A. Slow pumping or low discharge pressure
Cure:
1) Leaky head valves (or valves not seating).
Valves must be removed by removing head (or plates), hold-down cages and bolts must be removed. Then the valve may be lifted out. Clean all parts thoroughly, including head and top of pistons. Valve discs and seats must be smooth and flat and sometimes can be resurfaced on crocus cloth or fine emery cloth. Badly worn parts, including springs with loose tension, must be replaced.

Reassemble valve parts in proper sequence. Valves must move freely in retainers when assembled. Care must be taken to remove old seat gaskets and all carbon must be scraped and removed. Valve assemblies must sit flush on their seats so that cages and hold-downs can secure them with absolutely no "play" or motion. Use a film of grease on gaskets when replacing head on plates. Do not use shellac. Blow out intercoolers to remove any loose dirt or carbon before connecting to head.

Note: One of the simplest (and very effective) checks to see if valves are properly seating, is to remove the intake filter and hold your hand over the intake. If a valve is not seating it will blow back (at least partially) against your hand. If valves are properly seating, your hand will be constantly pulled in tight against the intake pipe.

2) Leaks in air lines or fittings
This must be done visually and physically. It may be necessary to inspect the entire piping system, checking every connection, hose and valve. Replace or tighten leaky fittings.

3) Restricted air intake
Clean inlet filters and replace clogged or dirty elements.

4) Compressor too small for load
Check air requirements and add to compressor capacity.

5) Belts slipping
When belts slip it sometimes sounds as if the compressor is "loading" excessively. A good way to tell if belts are slipping is to stop off the unit and feel the motor pulley next to the belt groove. If it was slipping the pulley will be hot. The heat being caused by friction of the slipping belt. But the surest way is to use a good amp meter (amp-probe) and when the compressor appears to "load" the amps will DROP significantly when the belts slip. If the compressor did actually "load", the amps would RISE significantly.

6) Unloading mechanism not properly operating
This situation is very common in "constant running" compressors. When the compressor reaches "cut-out" pressure it idles back. Then when the pressure falls to the "cut-in" limit, the unloaded does not function.

This can be several things: Check the pneumatic pilot valve to see that it is clean and working. Check all lines running from the pilot valve to cylinder heads and repair any leak and tighten all threaded connections. If the pilot is good and all lines are air-tight, then check unloaded plungers and o-rings for possible leaks or worn parts.

7) Blown gaskets on intercoolers
Carefully listen and feel for any leaks here, and repair as needed.

8) Defective pressure gauge
Many times you will have a complaint "not enough pressure" because the gauge is faulty. Always carry a master pressure gauge and check against the gauge on the compressor. Replace the worn gauge if it is not accurate, and reset the compressor controls to match the reading on the master gauge.

9) Worn compressor rings
This can cause slow pumping. But if rings are bad enough to cause this the unit will also be using entirely too much oil. Rings should be replaced.

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Table of Contents

This book has a soft cover with 25 pages filled with material on every aspect of the small reciprocating compressor. Here is a list of the topics.

Chapter 1, Introduction
a) Compressed Air Terms
b) Definitions

Chapter 2, Types of Air Compressors
a) Reciprocating, single and multi stage
b) Rotary Vane
c) Rotary Screw
d) Diaphragm

Chapter 3, Nomenclature
a) Pumps
b) Receiver Tanks
c) Motors
d) Safety Devices
e) Accessories
This includes details on the check valve, centrifugal unloader and aftercooler.

Chapter 4, Controls
a) Starting Controls
b) Operating Controls

Chapter 5, Installation
a) Location
b) Pipe Size
c) Wire Size

Chapter 6, Trouble Shooting
a) Common Failures
b) Diagnosis
c) Correction Procedures

Chapter 7, Overhaul Procedures
a) Minor Overhaul
b) Major Overhaul

Chapter 8, Maintenance
a) Recommended Schedule
b) Reference Charts

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You can learn more about maintenance and trouble shooting for the small reciprocating compressor with this 24 page, soft cover book.

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